Much of the discussions about fast fashion tend to focus solely on its environmental and personal consequences. The mainstream consumer is increasingly concerned about the pollution and waste produced by fast fashion, as well as the poor construction of fast fashion goods, which causes them to be short-lived. While significantly harmful, environmental damage and decreased product quality are far from the only negative consequences of this industry.
Given that 80% of garment workers are women, and that they are primarily concentrated in (so-called) ‘developing’ countries due to a lack of labour protections, it stands to reason that disadvantaged women face significant harm as a result of this exploitative industry (Labour Behind the Label).
With the climate crisis escalating and atrocities like global trade exploitation, hazardous working conditions, and sexual abuse at the forefront, it’s critical to shift to more ethical and environmentally safe alternatives; however, expecting people to stop purchasing fast fashion all at once is unrealistic. People prioritize ease of purchase and price of an item over sustainability, according to a 2018 LIM College survey of 685 shoppers ages 18 to 37.
In this context, my conversations with Kavya who goes by the Instagram username of kavya.ecofeminist are insights into the fact that climate justice without social justice is ineffective; they must coexist. Shaming is not and has never been a solution when the goal is to empower everyone. In this freewheeling conversation, we talk about feminist perspectives on fashion, the role of eco-feminism in fast fashion, and similar issues.
1. Do you think that fast fashion is a gendered issue and why?
Kavya: Fast Fashion has always been a gendered issue as there is still more focus on how ‘femininity’ must be presented to please patriarchal, masculine visual appeal. This has caused market factors to bring in ‘new and improved’ products/trends every season, most of which is packaging that goes by marketing and mostly ignoring comfort or functionality.
How many of us would fit into the sizes that models get by investing a lot? Don’t most of us have to carry at least a phone, keys and a wallet, even going by the patriarchal sense of functions? Have we had dresses that can address a few odd period stains in all these years? So, the joke is on fast fashion!
2. What do you think should be the possible interventions to address the gendered issue of fast fashion?
Kavya: Apart from the questions that you have asked, the cost of products is a strong contributor to the gendered marginalisation of fast fashion. Also, wouldn’t it be a refreshing change to actually see models who are not wearing any make-up if they are modeling for dresses, jewelry, etc., and use minimal jewelry if they model for cosmetics and so on?
And definitely think about the sensible placement of female models. Like, no woman would ideally go into a forest wearing tons of cosmetics, flowy dresses, or high heels, and definitely, they would be thrilled to take off their stilettos and heavy lashes after a wedding. To be honest, include real-life scenarios and some common sense.
3. What is ecofeminism according to you and how can eco feminism play a role in modifying the aspect of fast fashion to reduce its effects on climate change?
Kavya: Ecofeminism is a branch of feminism that understands that traditionally and conventionally women’s roles have been always relegated to that of a provider/nurturer, and the biggest parallel we have to it is our nature from whom humans expect unconditional nourishment. It is this unconditional expectation towards women and nature that patriarchy and commercialism have that sees this gross violation of rights and strongly voices the need to correct this approach.
Thus, while feminism takes on a role to provide equal opportunities to all, irrespective of their gender, Eco-feminism extends this empathy, opportunity, and identity to nature and people, all of who are being singly or combinedly being affected and exploited by patriarchal and commercial values and approaches.
Ecofeminist approach immediately implies a few things such as slow fashion, reusing old trends or extending fashion trends across seasons, utilizing more natural colours and fabrics, paying a fair price to end-manufacturers, putting less polluting chemicals, and using labour-intensive traditional processes as opposed to inorganic chemicals and bulk manufacturing, and definitely promoting the culture of hand-me-downs and swapping clothes. Been doing this ever since I remember.
4. Can fashion truly be made sustainable? Your views on the same
Kavya: To be truly sustainable with fashion, I would like to quote a story from one of Buddha’s fables.
Once his disciple went to Buddha to ask him for allowance to buy a coloured fabric to drape around himself. Buddha asked him what happened to his old one. The disciple said that since its colour got faded to white, he can now use it only on days when they have prayers wearing the white fabric. So Budha was curious about his older white fabric, and the disciple replied that since it has started getting holes, not that is being converted to his bedsheet.
Then what about the old bedsheet, Budha prodded. It got torn into small pieces, so it had to now be used as a wiping cloth. Where have the old wiping clothes gone, Buddha asked. The disciple stated that they were being used as wicks for his lamp. This satisfied Buddha to see how each of his disciples was using all their senses to be mindful of their impact on the earth.
This might be normal for some, extreme for others, explore within and understand where you stand and start from there, small, simple steps, right from the designer to manufacturer, marketing, distribution, retail, and end-users. I wish everyone to have a reason to not waste any single thing that they own, even if it is biodegradable because those too have paid a huge price to exist and will continue to do so till every single atom decomposes.