The pilgrimage to the Amarnath Cave is considered one of the holiest in Hinduism and attracts hundreds of thousands of devotees every year. The cave is believed to be the abode of Lord Shiva, and inside it, there is a natural formation of an ice lingam, a representation of Lord Shiva.
The yatra usually takes place during the summer months, typically from June to August. This year it started on 1st July and ends on 31st August. The journey to the Amarnath Cave is challenging and requires trekking through difficult terrains and crossing high-altitude mountain passes. The traditional route starts from Pahalgam or Chandanwari and covers a distance of approximately 46 kilometers. Another route known as the Baltal route is shorter but steeper, covering a distance of around 17km.
Date: 06–07–2023
At 3 pm, I departed from Meerut with my dear friend Arpit. We met up with another 60 people at the New Delhi railway station, accompanied by Varun and Abhishek. Departing from Delhi at 7 pm, we embarked on an incredible adventure.
Crossing Ambala, Jalandhar, Jammu Tawi, and several other locations, we marveled at the diverse landscapes that unfolded before us.
Date: 07–07–2023
Waking up at 4 am, we freshened up and recited the Hanuman Chalisa. By 5 am, we arrived in Udhampur, and from there, we departed for Pahalgam, which was 200 km away. Our travel companions included Varun, Arpit, Abhishek, Sumit, Shubham, Dhruv, Mandeep, Honey, kartik and his parents, and our driver Maroof Khan.
As we journeyed, we passed through beautiful valleys and noticed a gradual drop in temperature after crossing long tunnels. However, due to some unforeseen circumstances, we missed stopping at a famous restaurant known for its delicious Rajma Chawal. Determined not to miss out, a group of food enthusiasts among us decided to take a ride in a truck and make the trek back to savor the delectable meal. It turned out to be a decision well worth it.
Continuing our expedition, we encountered the magnificent Chenab River in all its glory. We crossed Jammu, Banihal, Kulgam, Anantnag, and finally met with my elder brother, who was there as part of the Amarnath security. Though we had already met two months ago in our hometown of Uttarakhand, the excitement and emotions of reuniting in such a distant place were overwhelming.
After bidding farewell to my brother, our group reached the CRPF base camp in Pahalgam, where we would stay until the rain subsided.
Date: 08–07–2023
At 4:30 am, heavy rain poured outside, and we sought shelter within our tents. I could hear announcements that the yatra had been halted due to the downpour. Curious about the situation, I ventured out alone to observe the surroundings in Pahalgam. Walking alongside the river, I experienced one of the best moments of the day. The serene flow of water amidst lush green forests created an unforgettable memory. Later, we engaged in a lively game of bluffing with cards, having fun, and enjoying each other’s company.
Pahalgam
Date: 09–07–2023
The morning greeted us with rain, and as we went for breakfast, we witnessed a gathering of people engaged in bhajans. Joining the diverse group of devotees from different parts of the country, we referred to each other simply as “bhole,” connecting as devotees of Lord Shiva. Suddenly, the sun broke through the clouds, bathing the camp in brilliant light. We all chanted “Jaykara” in unison, expressing our devotion to Mahadev.
Unexpectedly, our group members decided to explore Pahalgam since there was no confirmation about the yatra resuming. Just as we arrived there, we received news that the yatra had recommenced. Witnessing the real Kashmir, we saw an increase in security forces and traffic. People flocked to the roads, eager to secure taxis and reach Chandanwari, the base from where the yatra begins.
Joining the crowd, we made our way to Chandanwari, and how we got there will remain a secret known only to our group, with Varun being the keeper of that tale. We were already late, and our initial plan was to begin the yatra the next morning. However, circumstances forced us to set off in the evening. We quickly packed our bags, changed our clothes, and arrived at the checkpoint. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to pass, which turned out to be a fortunate turn of events. Walking in the dark, without proper lighting, would have been challenging. We returned to the camp, considering it a warm-up orchestrated by Mahadev himself.
We were treated to delicious food at the camp, courtesy of Sardarji. Exhausted from the day’s events, I fell asleep early, knowing that we had to start the yatra at 4:30 am the next morning.
Date: 10–07–2023
I woke up at 3 am, attempting to go back to sleep but failing. Instead, I engaged in prayer and meditation. At 4:30 am, we embarked on our journey toward Pissu Top. The steep climb on a muddy track with flowing water proved challenging, but the sight of beautiful landscapes along the way made it worthwhile.
We crossed Zozibal and Nagarkoti, and when we reached Sheshnag, where lord shiva left his sheshnag while moving to Amarnath cave to recite Amarkatha to mata Parvati, a viewpoint that held significance in the Amarnath legend, the view took my breath away. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains and a lake, it remains etched in my memory.
The next destination was Wawbal Top, situated at a height of 13,500 ft. The 3 km steep climb tested our endurance, but we managed to reach our resting point for the day. The Bhandara Pandals, organized by members of our group, provided us with essential amenities such as bedding, food, and hot water. The dedication and service they displayed, operating such a large-scale bhandara for over two months at such a high altitude amazed me. When I inquired about their motivation, the manager of Mahadev sevadar bhandara (Delhi) , Sardarji simply stated that Mahadev facilitated everything. It was a testament to the power of good intentions and the willingness of people to come together for a cause. I felt a sense of pride in my accomplishment of walking over 17 km in a day, particularly in such challenging terrain. In the evening, I joined a group to explore the top of the valley led by sardarji, enjoying the panoramic view. When rain began to fall, I made my way back downhill.
Our group leader advised us to hire horses for the remaining journey to the Amarnath Cave, as we would be walking approximately 43 km a day. However, we all expressed our determination to walk, no matter what challenges lay ahead. It felt as though Mahadev spoke to us from within, encouraging us to push our limits.
Date: 11–07–2023
In the early morning at 6 am, we freshened up, packed our bags, and set off on our journey. We reached MG Top, also known as Ganesh Top, where Lord Shiva left Lord Ganesh while proceeding to the Amarnath Cave. Situated at a height of 14,500 ft, the altitude posed no significant problems for our acclimatized bodies. The journey became increasingly enchanting as we found ourselves surrounded by snow. ITBP soldiers worked diligently, clearing the path and guiding us to prevent any slips on the icy terrain. The breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains and a river flowing beside us made the experience truly memorable.
We passed Postpatri and headed towards Panchtarni, which was described as one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the yatra. The cemented pathway, crystal-clear river, and snow-capped mountains left us in awe.
We took a moment to soak in the beauty of the surroundings, capturing the picturesque scene both in our cameras and our minds.
Our final destination was the Amarnath Cave, a 6 km journey from Panchtarni. Here, people who arrived by helicopter from Pahalgam or Baltal would continue their journey on foot or with the assistance of horses or palanquins. It was considered one of the most challenging sections of the yatra, with a narrow 2 m pathway shared by horses, palanquins, and pedestrians. Thanks to the efforts of ITBP soldiers, the traffic flow was managed efficiently. At around 12 pm, we caught a glimpse of the cave, still 2 km away. Energized by the sight, we eagerly moved forward, reaching the cave by 12:30 pm. We patiently waited for all the group members to gather, including our bags, which were transported by mules.
As I sat on a stone, I absorbed the vibrations and energy of the place, chanting “Om Namah Shivaya” until we finally had a darshan at 5:30 pm. Thousands of people were present near the cave that day. When we reached the cave on the stairs waiting for our turn, we saw Pegions sitting on the upper side of the cave, and the story is that while reciting Amar Katha to mata parvati, she slept and the two Pegions heard that story and they become eternal, as soon as people saw those white pigeons, chants of “Har har Mahadev” echoed the air, it was again an amazing feeling.
Inside the cave, we witnessed Baba Barfani, a Shivling made of snow, and offered our prayers and gratitude to Mahadev. Leaving the cave filled with positive energy, we expressed our thanks to Mahadev for calling us and being present throughout our journey. It was a realization that only when the calling comes from within can one successfully complete the Amarnath Yatra. Even a friend who had joined the yatra spontaneously, facing difficulties along the way, managed to complete the journey on foot with us.
With the day coming to an end, we embarked on the final leg of our yatra from Amarnath Cave to Baltal. The route was short about 17km but challenging, with a steep descent, rocky paths, and water flowing at some points. Each step required focus and precision, as one wrong move could result in injury. However, we overcame the obstacles and arrived in Baltal at 11:30 pm, completing the yatra by submitting our RF ID’s. We had to walk an additional 2 km to reach the taxi stand, where we bid farewell to the challenging terrains and beautiful landscapes. Reflecting on our achievements, I felt a sense of pride in surpassing my own expectations, having walked over 43 km in a single day. This yatra tested us mentally and physically, fostering confidence in our abilities.
Date: 12–07–2023
We spent the night in Baltal and booked a taxi to Jammu. As it was peak season, taxi charges were unexpectedly high, but we knew that waiting longer would only increase the fares. We departed from Baltal, passing through Sonmarg, Kangan, and Srinagar.
However, traffic jams and roadblocks caused by army convoys and ongoing construction work slowed down our journey. It took us 20 hours to travel 350km. Again we saw scenic valleys while passing through Sonmarg, Kangan, and Srinagar. Despite the challenges, we reached Jammu station before 4 am, thankful for our driver Shabbir Ahmad Bhatt.
Once aboard our train, we changed into fresh clothes and quickly fell asleep, exhausted from our endeavors, thanks to our friend Sumit who convinced our friends to travel in the first AC, most of us were traveling in the 1st AC for the first time, it was a great experience, We woke up at 11:30 am and spent the time reminiscing about our journey, sharing stories and laughter. We exchanged promises to send photos and videos, even though we knew some friends were notoriously reluctant to do so. It felt as if Arpit’s curse had worked, bringing out their mischievousness. Nonetheless, we cherished the memories we had created.
Overall, this Amarnath Yatra in 2023 proved to be an extraordinary experience. Made some friends, met some good people, and interacted with them. The journey challenged us physically and spiritually, bringing together diverse individuals who shared a common devotion to Lord Shiva.
We express our sincere gratitude to the soldiers of ITBP, the Indian Army, JK Police, SSB, CRPF, BSF, CID, and the laborers who worked tirelessly to maintain the tracks. Without their unwavering support, this yatra would have been nearly impossible. Their dedication and selflessness exemplified the spirit of service, without which this yatra would be nearly impossible. Their presence and assistance were constant reminders of the power of compassion and support in our lives.
As I reflect on this extraordinary journey, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness the magnificence of nature and the strength of devotion. The Amarnath Yatra will forever hold a special place in my heart, reminding me of the power of faith, the resilience of the human spirit, and the beauty of unity. This pilgrimage, filled with moments of bliss and self-discovery, will continue to inspire me as I embark on future adventures, eagerly embracing the wonders that lie ahead.
Har Har Mahadev!