The Kolkata Municipal Corporation officially designated the ‘Baro Ras Bari complex as a “Grade A” heritage building. Located in the Chetla area of South Kolkata, it is indicated on signs all across the neighbourhood, albeit with a warning not to do any structural damage to the ‘Baro Raas Bari’. However, it doesn’t appear like any additional damage is foreseeable. As I visited the place for the first time, a couple of years back, while working for a Kolkata-based NGO that provides service to the local children, I found out that the Baro Raas Bari is basically a combination of two types of temples.
One is in the traditional Bengali “aatchala” style with a huge black door entrance where it is inscripted that the temple was built in circa 1828. The other is a cluster of 12 temples that occupy three sides of a big square field now used by the local children as playground. The 12 temples are in shambles and have mostly been abandoned. The ‘Shiva Linga’ may still be seen within many of these temples which clearly gives the idea that these were Shiva temples. A few ‘Lingas’ have been destroyed, some have been stolen, and homeless folks have taken up residence inside the sanctorum of multiple temples. I was alarmed during my visits to have seen men drying their laundries and women preparing lunch next to a Linga. I wouldn’t be surprised if some unscrupulous promoter bulldozed all the temples to construct a high-rise eventually however that act is surely going to dishearten my weak soul that hold an unconditional love for my city, for Kolkata and it’s heritage.
As the story goes, Baro Rasbari was founded by Pyarilal Mondal and Monimonhan Mondal of Bawali(a village located approx 30 kms to the South West of the city of Kolkata) where they reigned since Mughal era. Later during the British period, Robert Clive invited Ramnath Mondal and Manick Mondal to settle in Chetla along the banks of Adi Ganga. As mentioned above, in ‘Baro Raas bari’, there are two temple complexes. Apart from the 12 Shiva temples, there exists a ‘Madanmohan’ temple which is in fairly fine shape. It has a huge black gate and one can see in both side of this entryway to this temple it is mentioned that the temple was built in the year 1828. The major idols at the temple now are Radharani and Madan Mohan.
Regular worshipping is done in the Madanmohan temple till date. Special days are observed as per hindu calender and rituals related to the specific deities are performed however very few people are aware of this place and there is hardly any tourist intervention here though this place has a lot of rich historical eminence. From what I found out after interacting with the present head priest of the temple, this place was built to balance the divine energies of Goddess Kali who resides just few kilo metres away at the temple of Kalighat. To match the vibe of Shakti Peeth of Kalighat, Shiva temple(Shoibo Shakti) was primarily established here. Now, in my opinion this might be a good reason to a debate that the divine power of women were feared in all ages and extreme policies were always on work for the man to have absolute control over the rebellious nature of a woman which might very well be interpreted and portrayed as a cause to create balance between both the sexes(vibes in this case) Shivas temple was set up at a stone’s distance from Kalighat.
Whatever be the reason, Baro Raas Bari holds year’s of history. Apart from historical stories from classical era, the walls of Baro Raas Bari still has imprints of the Nakshal movements. If you are an old soul who cherises the city’s historical importance- Baro Raas Bari must-visits visit. It was by sheer luck that I got the opportunity to visit this place given my genre of work however there are ample resources and write-ups about this place in the internet. For easy access I am mentioning the address in this article. Chetla Bara Raas Bari is located at Brojendra Ganguly Lane, Tollygunge, Kolkata, West Bengal 700033. Few steps away is Choto Raas Bari which also has classical stories attached to its legacy regarding which I intend to write some other day.
Author: Sumedha Dey.
N.B – Factual information was gathered from the locals and the priest of the temple.