In the month of March, when the falling leaves add to the terrific beauty of Delhi’s appearance, my Instagram feed was filled with beautiful reels of Lodhi garden and Humayun’s tomb.
Allured by the breathtaking views of these heritage sites, falling leaves, spring and flowers, I dressed up, putting all essentials in my bag, including great books on Mughal history and Delhi’s history. I went to Lodhi garden.
Delhi is the Rome of the east. Its monuments are known for their marvelous architectural details, their uniqueness is the result of the amalgamation of many designs.
All these places have warmth and calmness to offer. They also have many stories of glory to tell from their gloomy past. This world heritage day, let me tell you some of them.
Lodhi Garden
What I saw at Lodhi garden was a treat to an eye in a landlocked city. The Athpula bridge was built during the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Looking at the ducks (swimming) and other beautiful birds was an altogether fascinating experience, in a city where even sparrows are rarely found.
I sat there for a while and then I spotted heaven. It was not white, it was a dark pink, giant bougainvillea tree. Spreading positivity and calmness.
A group of intellectuals was discussing something. One of the women was Indian and the others were presumably Japanese. I liked the former’s outfit: white Lucknowi kurta and blue pants. Also, three couples were sitting under the tree. One of them was playing with the pink flowers.
I sat there for a few minutes and moved forward to a structure known as the Bangla dome, a part of the Bengali architecture adopted by the Mughals. A couple was sitting under it, at either sides of the entrance. They looked like they were breathing new life into their old and vulnerable love.
I waited for them to leave. I was glad that they were holding hands when they left. It means their issue was probably resolved. Perhaps they were inspired by that medieval structure made of fragile material—as if the structure was telling them: “If you take care of things, they last.”
The Mughals have many architectural marvels to their claim, but the Lodhis’ contribution to architecture is not insignificant. Their greatest contribution being the unique style they introduced by constructing tombs on a raised platform so that they appear huge.
Their architecture tradition was a mixture of Tughlaq and Turkish styles. The monuments inside the tomb of Muhammad Shah (of the Sayyid dynasty) and that of Sikandar Lodi, are built in an octagonal pattern. The latter consists of the shisha gumbad (glass dome) and bara gumbad (big dome).
The bada gumbad was constructed in the late 15th century and believed to have been the earliest constructed, full dome of any building in Delhi. Traditionally, these monuments would serve the purpose of a mehman khana (guest house).
When I went inside the bada gumbad, a group of youths were playing the guitar. And, outside the premises, I noticed many Afghan, refugee families eating sandwiches and bolani (stuffed flatbread).
The Lodhis were Afghans. They were able administrators and had brilliant military skills. Perhaps, these Afghan refugees were trying to find solace here, as the uncertain future of their country under the Taliban regime looms in the background.
The premises inside were ornamented with Quranic verses and floral designs as well as geometric patterns. This is one of the exceptional gifts of Delhi’s sultans to Indian architecture. I sat at such a place from where I could glance at all these structures.
Humayun’s Tomb
I got to thinking about how it was different from Humayun’s tomb. His tomb is giant and magnanimous. It depicts the tremendous wealth and prosperity of his son, the beloved Mughal emperor Akbar.
What is more astonishing about it is that it was built by a woman to show her love to a man. We live in a society where openly expressing love to your husband or lover is considered to as a sin and shameful.
But, hundreds of years ago, the love of Bega Begum for Humayun was so immense that she appealed to Akbar to allocate some funds to her, so that she could build this giant structure in the memory of her beloved husband.
Humayun’s tomb has the char bagh system (a Persian invention), initiated in India by the Mughal emperor Babur. It can be defined as a quadrilateral garden divided into parts by water channels. Seeing them from the tomb premises is soothing to one’s eyes.
It’s been said that Shahjahan took inspiration for the Taj Mahal from Humayun’s tomb. It set a precedent for the Mughal monuments that came after it. The complex also has many tombs of other Mughal kings, including Dara Shikoh.
The close proximity of Humayun tomb’s and the dargah (shrine) of Nizamuddin Aulia is not a matter of coincidence. It was Humayun’s earnest desire to be buried near the great saint.
My favourite place inside the complex is situated near the main building. It is spot near the water streams and under a giant tree. The view of the entire mausoleum from there is a terrific one. The place is serene. It has magical effects. It cures sadness and melancholy.
One common thing about all the monuments of Delhi is that you find many couples there. They are holding hands, expressing their love and resolving fights. I think they all resonate with Ravish Kumar, when he writes about romancing in Delhi’s monuments in his book “Ishq Mein Shahar Hona”: इतिहास से साँझा होने के बहाने वर्तमान का ये एकांत (the privacy of the present in the guise of a tryst with the past).
I like their presence at monuments when they sit nicely and talk to each other, but I just hate them when they write stuff on the walls of monuments. These places provide tremendous tranquility. You don’t have to be worried about narrow lanes, scorching heat and annoying traffic.
And, if you haven’t been to the paradisiacal gardens of Sunder nursery, then you can’t claim to be a true-blue Dilli wallah.
Nizamuddin Dargah
Despite the breathtaking beauty, marvelous architecture, colossal minarets and delightful gardens of Humayun’s tomb, the shrine of Nizamuddin Aulia, a saint, sees more visitors than the emperor’s (Humayun) final resting place. This tells us that people always admire kindness and egalitarianism over power and wealth.
Whenever I pass by the Nizamuddin dargah I always contemplate how the three great poets of the time, Mirza Ghalib (Urdu), Abdul Raheem (Hindi) and Amir Khusrow (Persian) are buried in close proximity (within a radius of about 1.5 kilometers).
The saint must have surely had some exceptional qualities and a healing effect.
Jama Masjid
My memories just didn’t stop there, I kept on thinking about all the palaces and medieval structures I have been to. I reminisced about my frequent visits to the Masjid-E-Jahanuma (the mosque commanding the view of the world), as the Jama masjid is also called.
I always visit it in the hours of sadness and dejection, and to my surprise, even seeing the board of “Jama Masjid“ at the metro station cures half my sickness. The other half is removed when I see the giant minarets.
The mini bazar that you see on the stairs of the mosque is NOT the result of population explosion, but a custom going on since the Mughal era.
The area outside might disturb you, but when you enter the mosque, you see the idea of India—people of all faiths and from the various parts of this country come together, to find peace and tranquility.
I recalled all the memories related to Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk and Red Fort. The hundreds of stories I saw and faces I read. I recollected all these memories while sitting in Lodhi gardens. And, amidst all the beautiful memories, I recalled one more memory which brought tears to my eyes.
The Tomb Of Bahlol Lodi
It’s when I visited the tomb of Bahlol Lodi. The able administrator who was well-known for his decent and respectful treatment of nobles, once supervised territory that ran from Panipat to Bihar.
He is now resting (not in peace, perhaps !) in a very dirty lane of Chirag-e-Delhi (lamp of Delhi) in a very deplorable condition. Seeing his tomb brought tears to my eyes. When I inquired about the pathetic condition of his tomb, someone said to me:
“It’s been like that since a very long time, and after the invention of WhatsApp university, where Muslim rulers are portrayed as terrible invaders, there is a growing disregard among people towards Muslim rulers. They throw more garbage and trash inside the premises now.“
The tomb of Bahlol Lodi is not the only place which is in pathetic condition. There are places like the Tughlakabad fort and purana kila (built by Mughal emperor Humayun and his rival Sher Shah Suri), which have now become the hub of immoral and illegal activities. They have not been well-conserved.
Of Conservation Efforts In The Capital City
All spots might not have that much historical significance, but they are still a part of our glorious past. If preserved well, these places have the potential of becoming tourist spots offering recreational activities.
The ASI’s (Archaeological Survey of India) attempts in conserving Indian heritage, and the Agha Khan Foundation’s exceptional work in the conservation of Mughal monuments, is laudable.
The latter has successfully conserved many monuments from the Mughal era. In fact, it has played a part in the conservation of Humayun’s tomb, too.
Whenever I step out of my hostel and take a walk in the city, I realise that Delhi has not forgotten it’s past. It has not forgotten her abusers—the people who ruined it in every possible way they could. And, Delhi’s sadness for its gloomy past can be seen in the crumbling ruins of tombs and palaces.
But, it has survived those wounds bravely. Sometimes, the ruined structures provide me with motivation and I tell myself: “zindagi migzara” (life goes on!).
How can I forget about the museums and memorials of Delhi? The memorials of all great leaders including Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and the museums of great significance.
Of all the museums I have been to, the treasure of the National Museum is unmatched. It’s where the artefacts of the Harappan civilisation and ancient era have been carefully preserved.
What Does Heritage Mean?
My love for Indian heritage, culture and traditions would not have tremendously grown, had I not stayed in Delhi. I have felt the taste of different cultures and traditions all over Delhi. I realised the importance of heritage in the city.
For me, the definition of heritage has evolved. Heritage is not just a structure or monuments.
A king (Ashoka), after unleashing a bloodbath in Kalinga, gives up violence and adopts pacifism. This is our heritage. A Muslim emperor (Akbar) advocates for peace among faiths through the concept of an ibaadat khana, where religious leaders of all faiths could discuss and debate. This is our heritage. We fought the evils of colonialism and imperialism with the weapon of non-violence. This is our heritage.
The custom of celebrating each festival with great zeal, without going into an enquiry of the faith associated with that particular festival, is our heritage.
A Muslim breaking his fast at his Hindu friend’s home is our heritage. A Christian boy decides to spends his life with a Sikh girl is our heritage. A Punjabi girl accepting Lucknowi culture and wearing a Lucknowi kurta is our heritage. A Delhiite eating momos is our heritage. People of different faiths gathering at the Nizamuddin dargah to get their wishes granted is our heritage. A Muslim finding peace and tranquility at Gurudwara Shri Bangla Sahib, is our heritage.
The values that our ancestors have taught; the virtues of kindness, tolerance, unity and brotherhood—these are our heritage. Indian heritage is love, tolerance and peace. It has no value for hatred, fanaticism and violence.
Until we preserve these intangible heritages, we won’t be able to conserve the tangible ones. History has witnessed the fact that whomsoever has tried to destroy Indian heritage, has perished. Let’s not be among the losers. Let’s love, not hate!
I can’t imagine Delhi without the Mughals and Delhi’s sultans. They made this city their home. They built the city, brick by brick, and made it enchanting like a newly-wed bride. Their love for the city was so colossal that they wished to be buried here.
Until we accept this fact and stop punishing one community, whose only crime is that they belong to the same faith as these so-called invaders, we won’t have peace in our life. Hatred is heavy, let it go… Happy world heritage day, everyone!