Tie-dye art of fabric designing today represents man’s strife for excellence and human emancipation. Traces of this art can be found in many places of the world such as China, Japan, Thailand, United States, United Kingdom and India. India is the leading Country in theWorld where this art has reached to a level of perfection that has no parallel in any other part of the World. In India this art form is practiced in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Chhattisgarh , Andhrapradesh, West Bengal and Odisha. The ’Patola’ of Gujarat and ‘ Bandhani’ of Rajasthan existed since ancient times . But the region of Western Odisha today holds the pride of place where this art has reached unparallel heights of perfection that commands the awe and admiration of the people all over the World. The tie- dye art practiced in this region is known as ‘Baandha’ also known as Ikat in other parts of the World.
The tie-dye technique is a form of resist dyeing whereby a desired pattern is created by permitting the dyeing of specific areas while wraping the other portions of the fabric or yarn with a threads, rubber strings, plastic or any dye proof material to prevent the soaking of the dye into the undesirable areas. The application of this technique to fabrics is easy but the designs are limited to a few with little perfection. Application of this technique to yarn is the most versatile technique that enables a craftsman to take a’ flight to fancy’ and create a design combining flora, geometrical and motifs of his choice with a high degree of perfection and in multiple colours. ‘Baandha’ designs reflects this height of perfection of the Craftsman. The ‘ Sambalpuri’ Saris, dress and furnishing fabrics originating in Western Odisha bears testimony to this heights of excellence attained by the craftsman in ‘Baandha’ art.
The unique feature of this art form is that the designs get reflected on both sides of the fabric. The creation of Baandha patterns on the yarns defies mechanical production. However the ‘Baandha’ yarns are being used to create fabric bearing simple patterns in power looms without perfection. Today, there exists a demand for all grades and shades of this fabric and hence a boon to the craftsman. Every piece of Tie-dye art is exclusive as its identical replication is not possible even by the same craftsman using the same inputs. It is individualistic as it reflects the inherent mark of excellence attained by the craftsman.
The appreciation of this art form was at its lowest ebb up to the end of the first Quarter of the Twentieth century and the ’Baandha’ or the’Ikat’ art was on the verge of oblivion. This art was the traditional art of the ‘Bhuliya’ community who had migrated from North west India and settled in Western Odisha. Weaving saris out of coarse cotton yarn employing the tie-dye technique was their chief source of lively hood. The demand for these saris was confined to the women folk of the region hence distress sale was common and the craftsman lived in penury. This art found its revival in the skilled hands of Radhashyam Meher whose innovation and entrepreneurial ability won appreciation from leading personalities from all walks of life all over the World and enabled this art to occupy a niche in the world of fashion and glamour.
At the age of seventeen, Radhashyam Meher invented the first handloom to weave textiles of Ninety inches width and employed the art to weave furnishing fabrics which had a wide market both in India and abroad. Encouraged by this success he designed saris in fine yarns employing this art. Mumbai became the maiden and lucrative market for these unique saris, highly appreciated by film stars and the elites of Mumbai. Very soon it captured the fancy of the womenfolk of the country. These achievements brought to fore the artistic grandeur of this versatile art form and made the tie-dye art famous throughout the World. He provided training and guidance to other craftsman of his community to excel in this art and led them on the path of prosperity and respect before the World. He was the inspiration and guide to the leading craftsman in the field such as Padmashree Kunjabihari Meher and Padmashree Chaturbjuja Meher along with other awardees who have been honoured by the nation. Today these products have attained recognition under the Geographical identification of patents in the name of ‘Sambalpuri’ as it originated and flourished from Sambalpur.
The kingdom of Sambalpur now a part of Western Orissa was created out of love. Narsingh Dev the king of Patnagarh, divided his kingdom and made his younger brother Balramdev the king of Sambalpur in the year 1540 as a display of affection. Western Orissa up till the year..1936 was part of the Central province of British raj. The reorganisation of states on linguistic lines; led to the merger of Western Orissa with the state of Odisha. Thus Oriya became the official language replacing Hindi which was the official language till its merger. Western Orissa known as ‘ Gadjat’ had it own distinct form of language, song and dance culture, tradition and religious practices quite distinct from Oriya and Hindi but phonetically had a closer similarity to Hindi. This merger was termed as the annexation of ‘Gadjat’. This annexation made it a victim of Step motherly treatment at the hands of Odisha and deprived Western Odisha of its share of economic and social, rights respects and privileges which continues up to this day.
The fame and popularity of ‘ Baandha’ art attracted World attention and appreciation not only for the artistic grandeur of Tie-dye (Baandha} textiles but also for its distinct culture, tradition and religious practices . Very soon ‘Sambalpuri’ became the common nomenclature for all its culture, tradition and religious practices that prevailed in Western Orissa. ’Sambalpuri’ today represents a way of life born out of love and excellence. Thus Baandha (tie-dye) art under the tutelage of its patriarch Radhashyam Meher became the torch bearer of excellence and human emancipation. The 20th day of November is therefore celebrated as Tie-dye Art day or Baandha Diwas as a tribute to the craft and its craftsmen.
Author
Bikram Kumar Meher